Skin Bleaching

Welcome to the July edition of the Ndlalane Health Newsletter! We are thrilled to see our subscriber numbers grow to an impressive 100 this month - a true milestone for our vibrant community of health-conscious individuals. In this edition, we tackle a topic that has been plaguing many young Africans, especially those in university: the alarming rise in the use of skin lightening products.

Driven by a culture that associates beauty with fair complexion, an increasing number of our girls are resorting to harmful skin bleaching practices in a desperate attempt to conform to these unjust standards. This article aims to shed light on the dangers of skin lightening and empower our readers to make informed, healthy choices for themselves and their communities.

For those who are joining us for the first time, my name is Sakhile, also known as DocSakhi. I wear many academic hats, but I won't bore you with those details. What I will tell you though is that I enjoy writing and educating others about different topics. I love music and wildlife documentaries, especially on big cats. That’s it 😊. Oh! and I know a thing or two about science and some medical stuff.

Please join me as we dive deep into this complex and critical issue, taking the first step towards challenging the biases that perpetuate this dangerous trend. This behavior has become normalized, with even our grandmothers participating in the practice of skin bleaching, leading to the common sight of women with lighter facial skin and darker extremities.

Skin bleaching, the practice of using chemical products to lighten one's skin tone, has a long and troubling history. The origins of skin bleaching can be traced back centuries, with evidence of skin lightening practices found in ancient civilizations like Greece, Rome, and China. However, the modern skin bleaching industry truly took off in the 20th century, fueled by harmful societal biases and beauty standards that equate lighter skin with higher social status and desirability.

One of the key figures responsible for the popularisation of skin bleaching was American entrepreneur and inventor Madame C.J. Walker. In the early 1900s, Walker developed a line of hair care and skin lightening products targeted at African American women, marketing them as a way to achieve a more "refined" and "beautiful" appearance (Malik, 2020). Walker's products contained ingredients like ammoniated mercury, a toxic substance now banned in many countries due to its severe health risks.

Long after the ban of ammoniated mercury, the practice of skin bleaching still continues, and the chemicals commonly found in these products are equally concerning. Many contain hydroquinone, a skin-lightening agent that can cause a range of acute side effects, including redness, burning, and increased sun sensitivity. Other problematic ingredients include corticosteroids and kojic acid, all of which can have devastating consequences for users' health (Mahé et al., 2003).

The skin bleaching industry has been heavily influenced by the power of celebrity culture and the promotion of lighter skin as the epitome of beauty and desirability. One of the most high-profile examples is the case of Michael Jackson, the legendary American entertainer. Over the course of his career, Jackson's skin tone underwent a dramatic transformation, with many speculating that he used various skin lightening treatments, including hydroquinone and corticosteroids, to achieve an increasingly pale complexion (Olumide, 2016). Jackson's evolving appearance fuelled widespread discussion and debate, with some criticizing him for succumbing to harmful beauty standards, while others empathized with the potential psychological factors that may have driven his skin bleaching practices.

In Zambia, singer and entrepreneur Dencia made headlines for launching her own skin lightening product line called "Whitenicious" in 2013. Dencia, who is of Cameroonian descent, has been very public about her own use of skin lightening creams over the years. She has defended her products, claiming they are meant to treat dark spots and hyperpigmentation, not for full-blown skin bleaching. However, many public health advocates have criticised Dencia for promoting the dangerous practice and contributing to harmful perceptions of beauty.

Similarly, in South Africa, media personality Khanyi Mbau has been open about her use of skin lightening products, which she has attributed to a desire to feel more confident and "beautiful" (Makhubele, 2019). Mbau's public embrace of skin bleaching has sparked both praise and condemnation, highlighting the complex societal pressures and ingrained biases that continue to drive the demand for lighter skin, even among prominent public figures.

In Nigeria, actress Amara Maduka was praised for her honesty when she opened up about her struggles with skin lightening. Maduka, who is known for her roles in Nollywood films, admitted to using skin bleaching creams for years due to insecurities about her dark skin tone. She has since denounced the practice, citing the negative health effects she experienced. Maduka now uses her platform to encourage young Nigerians, especially women, to embrace their natural complexions.

In addition to the more commonly known skin bleaching agents like hydroquinone and mercury, two other concerning chemicals have been associated with the skin lightening industry: betamethasone and clioquinol. Betamethasone is a potent corticosteroid that can be found in some skin bleaching products. When used for prolonged periods, betamethasone can thin the skin, leading to easy bruising, stretch marks, and an increased risk of infections.

The sudden discontinuation of betamethasone-containing products can result in a rebound effect, causing the skin to become even darker than the original tone.

Clioquinol, on the other hand, is an antimicrobial agent that has also been used in skin lightening formulations. While clioquinol can have some skin-lightening properties, it has been linked to a range of serious side effects, including nerve damage, vision problems, and even permanent discoloration of the skin. In severe cases, clioquinol-containing products have been associated with a condition known as subacute myelo-optic neuropathy (SMON), a potentially debilitating neurological disorder.

The side effects of skin bleaching can be very severe. In addition to the irritation and sun damage caused by hydroquinone, mercury-based products can lead to mercury poisoning, with symptoms such as rashes, scarring, kidney damage, and neurological problems. Corticosteroids, often used to treat the skin irritation caused by other bleaching agents, can thin the skin and cause acne, stretch marks, and easy bruising.

The long-term effects of skin bleaching are even more alarming. Prolonged use of these products can result in permanent skin discoloration, known as exogenous ochronosis, as well as an increased risk of cancer and organ damage. In extreme cases, skin bleaching has been linked to death, particularly when products are purchased on the black market or from unregulated sources.

Despite the well-documented dangers, the skin bleaching industry continues to thrive, fueled by deep-rooted colorism and unrealistic beauty standards that privilege lighter skin. In many parts of the world, the use of skin lightening products is widespread, with some studies estimating that up to 77% of women in certain countries use them regularly.

In recent years, there have been growing calls for greater regulation and public awareness of the risks associated with skin bleaching. Several countries have banned the sale of certain skin lightening products, and some celebrities and influencers have spoken out against the harmful practice. However, the deeply ingrained societal biases that drive the skin bleaching industry remain a formidable challenge.

At this point, let's explore the medical and biological consequences of these skin bleaching products from a scientific perspective. These active chemicals work by interrupting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color, by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin synthesis. Chemicals like hydroquinone and kojic acid interfere with tyrosinase activity, thereby reducing melanin production. Additionally, certain compounds, such as mercury, can generate excessive free radicals that can damage melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) and disrupt normal skin pigmentation.

Prolonged use of these harsh chemicals can also lead to the thinning of the epidermis (the outer layer of skin), making it more vulnerable to sun damage and further discoloration. The overuse of these products can also compromise the skin's natural protective barriers, leading to inflammation, infection, and other complications.

Melanin is a critically important pigment that plays a vital role in human biology and health. It provides photoprotection by absorbing and dissipating harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, shielding the skin, eyes, and other tissues from DNA damage and reducing the risk of sunburns, premature aging, and skin cancer. Melanin also helps regulate body temperature by influencing the skin's ability to absorb or reflect heat, and it has antioxidant properties that can help neutralize free radicals and modulate the immune system.

Due to the habit of skin lightening, many people have little to no melanin on their skin, which mimics a condition known as albinism. The consequences of this are dire, as they are at an increased risk of sun sensitivity and skin cancer, as well as other health issues related to the disruption of the body's natural melanin balance.

In conclusion, I wish to congratulate you for reading up to this far, this is a clear indication that you are one of the people we need in our society. The people who are hungry for knowledge and the people who are equipped to promote skin positivity and challenge the harmful societal norms that drive the skin bleaching industry.

By educating ourselves and others about the dangers of these products and working towards a more inclusive and equitable world, we can empower people to embrace their natural skin tones with pride and confidence.

Thank you. 😊 remember to invite your friends to subscribe to our newsletter and be in the know just like you. Let’s meet again on our next edition.